Late 1400 century dress in wool

I was cold so I desided to make a warm dress in wool. I found a piece of wool, but I didn´t have enough fabric so I had to have gores in a different colour.

some inspiration for the modell was found here.

Very soon I found out that I didn´t have enough fabric in the same color to the whole dress. My solution was to make gores in a different colour. The dress is made in 5 parts with 3 gores. But my belly is somehow loooking strangely big, like I have swallowed a football or similar, so I decided to cut along the centerline at the front, to make two pieces. . Now I was able to sew one gore along the middle fronthem. After this rather heavy cut or heavy decision my stomach doesnt´t show, but I have 6 parts and 4 gores

The arm is a little special. It is just sewn together from the armpit down to the elbow. The rest of the arm is opened and the edges are tied together whith straps, so that you can see the chemise.

The arm is constructed from an ordinary arm pattern, but is made thinner. The lining has the same shape and is sewn together with the arm right side to right side at the shoulderhem.

At the lowerpart of the arm, the lining is handstiched along the sides, a few mm in. Because there are eyelets along the sides at the edges . (Handstich the lining after making all the eyekets)

It is the top of the arn to the right, in the picture.

One probem that I had was that one fabric moved moore than the other. It moved and the different parts didn´t fit in the end.

But a tip is to put the stiffest piece of fabric on top in the machine.

To sew a gore in place doesn´t have to be difficult. Put the gore right side to right side with one part longside, sew and iron.Then sew the other part together with the new first part longside that you got, by sewing the gore together with the first part.

I am very proud to present Lovisa II. This is my better me. She is made by me and my youngest daughter. Not heavy and doesn´t say anything when I swaer because I have taken some blood sampels with a needle, or cut myself.

She hangs in a strap from the ceiling. Lovisa II has her shoulders as high up as I have, so I will be able to make the hem of dresses or skirts, on my dummie

If I move her to another room I just have to adjust the strap length.

The back is laced up, with hand made eyelets. As the dress is somehow a kind of copy from late 1400, the lacing is not in X formation.

Round the neck, there is a thin lining, because I don´t like wool next to my body. To fasten this lining I decided to embroidere a very simple embroidery, just so the lining didn´d pop up suddenly, by accident. The embroidery is made in dark blue woolyarn, the same colour as the gores, to make a look of dark red and blue.

The skirt is very broad, at the hem, and remark not straigt!

The hem is rounded!

Well this is what I thought it would look like when I started, and it became just like it.

Some thoughts around making the dress. I decided that everything should have the same blue colour as the gores, just because then it will look like I have done it on purpose and not because I didn´t have enough fabric in darkred. The eyelets are made by hand in dark blue just as the embroidery. The lining at the arms is made in dark blue.

From the beginning it looked like I had a very big stomach, so I did cut the front panel in to two and placed a gore there. This made magic and I don´t look like I have a to small dress or a to big stomach, so the secret is not to be stingy in using much fabric.