Untengels särk

Chemise. A kind of underpinning always worn with the dresses, and they had many shapes. But the base is very easy, and was always almost the same. You can add a collar, make the chemise longer or shorter. make it wider or smaller, or.................
	The base pattern is practically just 4 rektangulars. The ponted lines shows the easy way ( cheatway) to cut. If you make the arms longer in the middle you won´t have to insert cloth at the under hem of the arm. Wich is the common way and period way to do it. If you are going to add a collar, remember that the curved line on the collar are supposed to be down and stiched to the chemise neckhole. The shoulder is about 14 cm (5"-6") If you are going to do a chemise with a collar the neck hole vill look enormously wide, but don´t worrie, you will pleete it under/in the collar later on.
	The collar is about 40 cm long, and about 10 cm in at the collar there are marks for the shoulderhem that shall fit into theese marks. Since I chose a chemise with very large sleeves that will be pleeted at the cuffs, I cut them out folded at one of the longsides. That way I don´t have to sew one of the hems. I sew the cuffs at the short sides, and turned them outside in. Sew the collar around 3 sides, but leave the down side open. Ev you have to cut the corners before you turn the collar outside in and iron. All extra cloth at the neckhole now are supposed to get pleeted in/under the collar, make sure that the marks for the shoulders fit the shoulderhem. Start to sew the collar att the right side and hemstich the backside of the collar to the chemise.
	When I had finished I thought that my shoulders sort of hanged downon my arms, so I just made a pleete near the collar. No one will ever know, because it looks like I made it on purpose.
	The middle is opened, right down to the vaist. This means that the chemise can be opened, and be used for a dress with a deep décolletage. Put a long piece of cloth on the front,at the right side,from the neckhole and down almost to the vaist. Sew down and then up again about 2 mm to one side of the first sewed hem. Cut in the middle of the hems, and turn it outside in.
	At the outside of the collar a lace is stiched. And at the inside I brodiered. At each side of the collar there are a small strap that ends in small metall pieces. That I bought at a viking market The pattern for the embroidered edging I found on the web, among patterns for renaissans clothes.